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Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve
PO Box 7, King Salmon, AK 99613
Phone: 907-246-3305
Fax: 907-246-4286
Open All Year

Overview. In June 1912, the
Novarupta volcano violently exploded, bringing the Katmai area to
the world's attention. Located along Alaska's southern coast and the
Pacific Ring of Fire, the area is no stranger to volcanic activity,
with 15 active volcanoes peppering the landscape. After Robert
Griggs of the National Geographic Society explored the area in 1916
to investigate the aftermath of the explosion, whose effects were
felt throughout the Northern Hemisphere, the area immediately
surrounding Novarupta and Mt. Katmai was declared a national
monument in 1918. Griggs and his team were especially amazed by the
Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, where ground water percolated through
still-hot layers of ash and turned into plumes of steam.
Even though originally set aside
because of the spectacular results of this cataclysm, Katmai is now
treasured for its rich natural resources. Gradually expanded to
include a vast landscape of coastline, valleys, peaks, and
waterways, Katmai was declared a national park and preserve in 1980
to keep intact the habitat of over 2,000 bears and their favorite
food, spawning sockeye salmon. These tenacious fish migrate yearly
to their home gravel beds far upstream from their winter ocean
haunts. Attracting sport anglers and enormous bears alike, over a
million salmon travel up the Naknek system of lakes and rivers by
the end of July.
The Katmai area has also been home to human beings for over 6,000
years. Large herds of caribou and rich fishing waters supported
several groups of people, whose cultural remains provide a valuable
record of prehistoric life in southern Alaska. Today the park's four
million acres lure kayakers, anglers, hikers, and bear-watchers into
a largely untouched wilderness.
What to see and do. Because
getting to Katmai requires much planning, the park is likely to
remain largely untouched. You can't drive there. Most visitors fly
from Anchorage to King Salmon, the park's headquarters. From here,
you can catch floatplanes (which require advance reservations) or
embark on a short drive and lengthy boating odyssey to Brooks Camp.
There are no RV facilities, and if you bring a tent, you'll need to
reserve a spot here during the summer season. There is a seven-day
stay limit. Brooks Camp is a good place to begin, especially during
summertime, because rangers offer informative programs, and several
short hikes allow you to acquaint yourself with the surrounding
area. Above all, you'll get to see the bears. A half-mile hike from
Brooks Camp lies the bear-watching platform. During the July salmon
run, don't miss 1,000-pound brown bears scooping bright red salmon
from the rushing waters.
Another highlight of any stay in Katmai would be a trip to the
Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. Even though the number of steam vents
has diminished, the altered landscape is still spectacular. You'll
also have a chance to see Novarupta and Mt. Katmai's caldera, which
was formed when the Novarupta explosion drained magma from beneath
its peak. Daily tours bring you to the Three Forks Overlook. You can
stop here, take in the otherworldly landscape of ravines carved in
700 feet of volcanic deposit, then return to Brooks--or continue on
and camp. From this trail, you can pursue a strenuous but rewarding
hike through passes and over glaciers to Novarupta and the caldera,
described by Robert Griggs as "weird, vitriolic robin's-egg blue."
Along your way, keep eyes open for songbirds, caribou, and beaver,
to name only some of the park's many other residents.
Remote expeditions are also possible,
whether on foot or by kayak or canoe. Bring your own equipment, or
get supplies and even a guide at several privately run lodges in the
park. Backcountry exploration is welcomed, and it may be the best
way to see as much wildlife as possible. Be prepared for rainy, cool
weather, even in summer, and always expect swarms of mosquitoes.
Fishing is excellent, so bring your gear and a license to see why
bears and other predators make Katmai their home. Plan your trip
with the help of park rangers.
Seasons play a large role at
Katmai. Park concessionaires operate only during the summer. Most
private lodgings are offered on a package basis and aren't cheap;
call the park for details. Private outfits also organize "flightseeing"
tours along with rafting and boating trips. However you choose to
see Katmai, you won't be disappointed by the tremendous scale of
both land and wildlife.
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